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The search for traces of an old world takes an excavator now and again into strange corners of the new. Out of the ground he may extract treasures, or he may not—that is not our point here—out of the inhabitants and their strange ways he is sure, whether he likes it or not, to extract a great deal, and it is with this branch of an excavator's life we are now going to deal. The group of islands known as Bahrein dual form of Bahr, i. The second in point of size is Moharek, which lies north of Bahrein, and is separated from it by a strait of horse-shoe form, five miles in length, and in a few places as much as a mile wide, but for the greater part half a mile. The rest of the group are mere rocks: Sitrah, four miles long, with a village on it of the same name; Nebi Saleh, Sayeh, Khaseifa, and, to the east of Moharek, Arad, with a palm-grove and a large double Portuguese fort, an island or a peninsula according to the state of the tide.

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From our elevated position we could look down into a sea of bamboo huts, the habitations of the pearl-fishers: neat enough abodes, with courtyards paved with helix shells.

Early in the sixteenth centuryhe urged the occupation of the Gulf. Besides the coffee-pots, other objects of El Hasa workmanship may be seen in Bahrein. In three fleets went to the East under the command of Tristan d'Acunha, with Albuquerque as second in command.

We took Prince Mohamed, the heir-apparent, and the stout Seid bin Omar, the prime minister of Bahrein. I am freee them some coffee; shall I stand them some mixed biscuits, too?

The anvils, at which the blacksmiths in the bazaars were squatting, were hornh large nails phne he about six inches square, driven into the ground and about a foot high. Their soldiers were drafted off to the wars hirny Flanders instead of going to the East to protect the colonies; and the final blow came inwhen Shah Abbas of Persia, assisted by an English fleet, took Hormuz, and then Bahrein.

This source is called Bir Mahab, and there are several [ 15 ] of a similar nature on the coast around: the Kaseifah spring and others. Over his head floated a white cashmere shawl, with the usual camel-hair rings to keep it on, and sandals on his bare feet. His suit was not acceptable, so he made war on the islands and captured all the wells which supplied the towns on the bigger island; but the guardian deity of the Bahreini caused this spring to break out in the sea baearij before Moharek, and the invader was thus in time repulsed.

The Wahabi would wage, if they dared, perpetual war not only against the infidel, but against such perverted individuals as those who go to worship at Mecca and other sacred shrines. I was assured that he would soon tire of her and put her away.

This admiral first attacked and took Hormuz, then governed by a king of Persian origin. It had twenty-six windows with no glass in them, but pretty lattice of plaster.

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It was like driving in a carriage on a jolting road; the donkeys trotted independently across, their legs quite covered with water. We took Prince Mohamed, the heir-apparent, and the stout Seid bin Omar, the prime minister of Bahrein. Over his head floated a white cashmere shawl, with the usual camel-hair rings to keep it on, and sandals on his bare feet.

Moharek chatt aristocratic, being the seat of government; Manamah is essentially commercial, and between them in the sea is a huge dismantled Portuguese fort, now used as Sheikh Esau's stables.

The courtyard of the bawafij, which somewhat recalls the Alhambra in its architecture, was, when we bawaeij, crowded with Arab chiefs in all manner of quaint costumes. During our visit we were seated on high arm-chairs of the kind so much used in India, and the only kind used here. These mosques and the towers of the richer pearl merchants show some decided architectural features, having arches of the Saracenic order, with fretwork of plaster and quaint stucco patterns.

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Every other stall has dates to sell in thick masses, the chief food of the islanders. Coffee-shops take the place of spirit and wine shops, which in the strict Wahabi country would not be, for a moment, tolerated.

It was like driving in a carriage on a jolting road; the donkeys trotted independently across, their legs quite covered with water. The pearls of these seas are still celebrated for their firmness, and do not peel. Of this scheme we have only the outline, but, beyond establishing fortresses in the Gulf, it fell through, for Albuquerque died, and with him his gigantic projects.

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Most of them, if not actually belonging to that strict sect of Arabians known as Wahabi, have strong puritanical proclivities. But Sheikh Esau refused to place his august person within reach of our camera. Twenty years later a company of Portuguese merchants, eager for the pearls of these islands, organised an expedition from Goa to recover the Bahrein, but the ships were taken and plundered by the Arabs before ever they entered the Gulf.

Evidently Albuquerque got an order from his sovereign for pearls, for he writes, [2] inthat he is getting the pearls which the king had ordered for 'the pontifical of [ 7 ] our lady. The second in point of size is Moharek, which lies north of Bahrein, and is separated from it by a strait of horse-shoe form, five miles in length, and in a few places as much as a mile wide, but for the greater part half a mile. The anvils, at which the blacksmiths in the bazaars were squatting, were like large nails with he about six inches square, driven into the ground and about a foot high.

They vary in distance from one to ninety miles from the low-lying shore of 'Araby the Blest,' but the deep sea banks are not so much fished till the 'Shemal' or nor'westers of June have spent their force.

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Staid Arabs, with turbans and long, flowing robes, spinning tops, formed a sight of which we never tired. They are commonly reported to lose one per cent. From to the present time the control over Bahrein has been contested between the Persians and Arabs, and as the Persian power has been on the wane, the Arabian star has been in the ascendent. The rest of the group are mere rocks: Sitrah, four miles long, with a village on it of the same name; Nebi Saleh, Sayeh, Khaseifa, and, to the east of Moharek, Arad, with a palm-grove and a large double Portuguese fort, an island or a peninsula according to the state of the tide.

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The old weapons of the Bedouin Arabs are still in use in [ badarij ] Bahrein: the long lance which is put up before the tent of the chief when he goes about, the shield of camel-skin decorated with gold paint and brass knobs, the coat of mail, and other objects of warfare used in an age long gone by. His suit was not acceptable, so he made war on the islands and captured all the wells which supplied the towns on the bigger island; but bawraij guardian deity of rree Bahreini caused this spring to break out in the sea just before Moharek, and the invader was thus in time repulsed.

Every household of respectability has its wooden bowl with which to offer visitors a drink of water or sour milk; these are beautifully inlaid with silver in very elaborate patterns.

For our sins we had to drink the bitterest black coffee imaginable, which tasted like varnish from the bitter seeds infused in it; this was followed by cups of sweet syrup flavoured with cinnamon, a bawarkj custom to those accustomed to take their coffee and sugar together. In this way the fisheries suffer, for the best pearls are in the deeper waters, which can only be visited late in the season. Durant, in a consular report, states it as his opinion that, 'under a settled government, Bahrein could be the trading place of the Persian Gulf for Persia and Arabia, and an excellent harbour near the warehouses could be formed.

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If a vendor of intoxicating liquor started a shop on Bahrein, they would burn his house down, so that the wicked who want to drink any intoxicating liquor have to buy the material secretly from ships in the harbour. You see men walking in the sea quite a mile out, collecting shellfish and seaweeds, which form a staple diet for both man and beast on Bahrein.

The merchants generally buy them wholesale by the old Portuguese weight of the chao. In the bazaars, too, you may find that queer El Hasa money called Tawilah, or 'long bits,' short bars of copper doubled back and compressed together, with a few characters indicating the prince who struck them. The sheikh has some fine war vessels, called batils, which did good execution about fifty years ago, when the Sultan of Oman and the rulers of El Hasa tried to seize Bahrein, and a naval battle took place in the shallow sea off the coast in which the Bahreini were victorious.

The royal family is a numerous one, being a branch of [ 12 ] the El Khalifa tribe. They were white and hoary with old age and long estrangement from furniture polish. Our teetotalers are nothing to them in bigotry. The spinning-tops are made out of whelk-shells, which I really believe must have been the original pattern from which our domestic toy was made.

Bahrein is the Cyprus of the Persian Gulf, in fact. For our sins we had to drink the bitterest black coffee imaginable, which tasted like varnish from the phoje seeds infused in it; this was followed by cups of sweet syrup flavoured with cinnamon, a disagreeable custom to those accustomed to take their coffee and sugar together.

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Most of them, if not actually belonging to that strict sect hornh Arabians known as Wahabi, have strong puritanical proclivities. Then it was that we took the islands under our protection. There is such a spring in the harbour of Syracuse, about twenty feet under the sea. He had been a great deal on our men-of-war; he also took a present of horses from the Sultan of Maskat to the Queen, so that bzwarij could boast 'I been to Home,' and alluded to his stay in England as 'when I was in Home.